blog montres

Guichet : tout savoir sur le guichet d’une montre

Posted on by Philippe Ambert
guichet montre
04
Feb

L’horlogerie, et plus particulièrement les montres, n’ont jamais cessé d’évoluer au fil des décennies. Proposant de plus en plus de modèles, de styles différents, de complications complexes, et d’éléments constitutifs, les montres deviennent des objets précieux et uniques. Parmi les nombreuses sortes de complications permettant de donner diverses informations, certaines sont adaptées à la vie de tous les jours et assez fréquentes, tandis que d’autres sont plus rares et liées à un usage bien spécifique. Dans cet article, nous allons nous intéresser au guichet, une complication qui est aujourd’hui très populaire, mais qui cache encore de nombreux secrets.



guichet-montre



Qu’est-ce que le guichet d’une montre ?

Le guichet est une ouverture dans le cadran permettant d’afficher une indication ou une information au porteur. Une montre peut contenir un ou plusieurs guichets. Ils peuvent renseigner sur le mois, le jour, les heures, les quantièmes, les minutes, la phase lunaire, etc… Le guichet le plus fréquent est celui qui concerne le jour du mois en cours ; cette information est affichée grâce à une petite fenêtre carrée dans laquelle apparaît un chiffre allant de 1 à 31. Un guichet est le plus souvent situé à 3 heures, même s’il peut effectivement être placé à n’importe quel endroit.



L’histoire du guichet en horlogerie


Les débuts du guichet sur les montres

C’est en 1915, que Movado, l’une des marques préférées des passionnés de montres anciennes, a présenté ce qui était probablement la première montre-bracelet dotée d’un guichet affichant la date.



C’est véritablement au cours des années 1920 et 1930 que les propriétaires de montres se sont habitués à avoir un garde-temps affichant l’heure, mais aussi la date. En effet, les guichets de date se sont répandus extrêmement rapidement dans le monde de l’horlogerie suisse, et de nombreuses marques ont commencé à proposer ce type de complication. Un coup de chapeau spécial à Mimo, une marque adjacente de Girard-Perraugx, dont la Mimo-Meter a largement contribué à populariser la complication après son introduction en 1930. La Mimo-Meter a été la première montre-bracelet dotée d’un guichet de date à 3 heures. C’est la maison Rolex qui prendra ensuite le relais.



montre-mimo-meter



Rolex, le plus grand acteur du guichet de date

La référence 4467 Datejust de Rolex, présenté par Hans Wilsdorf en 1945, lors du 40e anniversaire de Rolex, a été la toute première montre-bracelet à mouvement automatique dotée d’une complication de changement de date automatique. Effectivement, avant cela, les mouvements étaient tous avancés manuellement. Les jours pairs étaient rouges et les jours impairs étaient noirs, l’ouverture, quant à elle, était placée à 3 heures afin de se glisser facilement sous la manchette du porteur lorsqu’il la portait au poignet gauche.



support-montre-marbre



Rolex a continué à faire progresser la complication de la date en introduisant sa loupe cyclope en 1953, ainsi que le saut de date instantané à minuit en 1955. Les modèles Datejust antérieurs faisaient lentement avancer la date sur une période de 4 heures, de 10 heures à 2 heures, ce qui rendait la mise à l’heure pendant ces heures dangereuse (d’un point de vue mécanique). En ce qui concerne l’ajout de la loupe cyclope, qui tire son nom de la mythologie grecque, l’histoire raconte que la femme d’Hans Wilsdorf ne parvenait pas à lire facilement la date et que la loupe a donc été ajoutée.



Parallèlement à la Datejust 2.0, Rolex a introduit la fameuse GMT Master en 1955 avec un guichet de date à 3 heures. À la fin des années 1960, la Submariner et la Sea-Dweller sont proposées avec cette même caractéristique. La complication de la date étant devenue un pilier du catalogue Rolex et d’autres modèles, comme la Seamaster d’Omega, le reste du monde de l’horlogerie a suivi, ajoutant un guichet de date à presque toutes les montres.



boîtes-à-montres



Conclusion

Finalement, le guichet est un élément extrêmement important dans les montres, et plus généralement dans l’horlogerie. Popularisé depuis de nombreuses décennies, notamment grâce à la marque Rolex, le guichet est devenu une complication quasiment “incontournable” pour la majorité des montres de luxe.



N’hésitez pas à rejoindre le club privé et recevez votre ebook offert sur les montres ! Vous recevrez également un e-mail en avant-première dès qu’un nouvel article de blog sera mis en ligne.
    Philippe Ambert

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      The reason I ask is because your design seems different then most blogs and I’m looking for something
      unique. P.S My apologies for getting off-topic but
      I had to ask!

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